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When Jon Sichel had my grill rechromed he used a radiator rebuilder (I don't have the name) as they are used to taking these sort of things apart and rebuilding.

Classic Autos made up a set of these stone guards for the front wings of my Aceca BE588 based on the very tired originals.

Aceca door handles are indeed Rover P4 and available from ( http://www.westonbodyhardware.com/our-products/section-b-handles/ )

Many thanks guys for all the comments.
   I did check on the power usage of the various bits and pieces, using the ammeter which, of course, only measures the current flowing into or out of the battery; these are approximate as I'm not sure how accurate it is, particularly at higher currents, as I've never seen over 15/20 amps in either direction in actual use:-
   -side and headlights (full beam 65w) 10amps
   -brake lights                        3amps
   -fan                                 6
   -heater                              3
   -wipers                              3
   ie 25amps or so in total so it's no surprise that the dynamo struggles on occasions in the wet and traffic etc. (plus charging the ipad on the Mille Miglia).
   So, I've converted to negative earth (not strictly necessary) bought the Dynalite and will give it a go. If the ammeter keeps bouncing off the 30amp end stop or the wiring starts sizzling I'll clearly have to have another think.
   A connected question; Holdens advise the best headlights are a Wipac or Cibie H4 unit with halogen bulbs (ie not my present Lucas 'tripods' plus BPF halogens) - does anyone have any experience of these?

The 2 photos of an Aceca Bristol tray are exactly the same as my car (BE588 1957) and also BE817 (1961) which I used to own. The BE588 one is complete although the screwdriver and the socket on the end of the socket 'driver' (space on right) are not original. The hammer (which I think is original) is a Thor no 1 which fits well although I also have a more recent Thor no. 1 which is a touch larger and doesn't fit so well. In practice, the bigger/heavier Thor no. 2 is  actually more useful for the job. The spanners are Garringtons. The Bristol engine spanner is generally not now useful as most Bristol engines seem to have beefed-up cylinder head studs/nuts. I would add a photo but haven't worked out how to do this. Anthony, are you thinking of re-producing these Aceca Bristol trays as mine is a touch tatty?

Following my previous post and advice (when I was worried about putting 40 amps through the existing wiring) I changed the car to negative earth and fitted the Dynalite. I decided that I could keep an eye on the ammeter and turn off if the needle showed signs of  bouncing off the 30amp stop or there were sizzling noises. This was very straightforward job with good instructions. Dynalite (and Holdens) do a dummy control box but this is not necessary as the control box is no longer needed and I just used the old one with the terminals 'shunted' together.
   I started carefully but have not seen over 20amps charging and for a very short period. The alternator covers the maximum discharge of 25 amps(with everything on) easily and starts charging at about 1,000rpm  The current (and presumably voltage) regulation from the built in regulator is much smoother and more rapid than the control box. So a good success although perhaps a completely run down battery might produce a higher charging current.
   Now for some better light units and halogen bulbs!

I'm thinking of fitting a dynalite alternator to my Aceca Bristol as the dynamo is scarcely adequate for more powerful headlamp bulbs, electric fan, wipers plus the ipad running a timer function etc.
   I'm worried about the downsides of the extra current though - has anyone any experience of this and is the higher amperage (45 vs 25amps) a problem eg will it damage the ammeter or require higher spec. cable to take the extra current?