Messages

I'd agree with tappet adjuster Eddie that over fueling unlikely caused by fuel pump position but rather issue with float height setting / float needle valve sealing against seats and/ or fuel pump pressure being to high.
Most early carbs are low pressure high volume feed( ie webbers etc 4psi). Its worth checking floats have integrity as well ( not leaking) - test in hot water for leaks.

I work with pumps a lot in the oil and gas industry for lifting fluids out of wells and the key point is that they need primed with liquid ( not air/ gas) to pump efficiently where they can lift liquids to the required location and at the required pump "head"( think pressure), so you could site fore or aft but they would be best sited at least below the mid point of fuel tank depth, or close so they are always primed assuming you keep the tank filled up. The lower the better imho.
FH

Laurent- I would first establish what's marked on the bearing in your car and go from there.
(Ie ml,l,m)
Theses bearings are spherical bearings and a bit like heim / rose joint rod bearings.

Decoding the suffix is a bit of a mystery as you would need to know the manufacturers suffix table meaning.
Often it's metal type , fit quality etc. I never got to the bottom of why mine was L, and even thought it meant "loose fit" as the new ones were loose, but that's speculation on my part , not  indisputable fact.

The most recent post prior to yours discusses  a variant of this bearing ( RBJ-207L) that most of us seem to use and there was a uk supplier at reasonable cost.

You mention it's an RBJ-210 ( let's not worry about suffix for now) - I found this table showing bearing and construction and sizes

Graham

This link shows the bearing - I have a couple on the shelf and can give you a contact.
https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1993.msg1993#msg1993

Graham
( no no longer a member but don't mind helping out a member)

Reference the original question , is there not muddling up static timing ( ie 12.5 deg tdc) and centrifugal advance at full rpm. I assume the distributor used on the Weller 6 cylinder has centrifugal advance or a manual advance lever some where.
FH

I got one of these from the original batch and use it as a display item in my Bristol 400 tool box.

Do you want it for " real" use or display?

I bought a 1/4" whitworth ratchet spanner for real mechanical work.

The originals not easy to find at reasonable price so just keep looking about and you may get lucky.

https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/ldj40-r-m-imperial-deep-groove-40x80x23mm/

Some here

Greg,
This is from the UK M.O.T testing manual (annual vehicle check though many older cars exempt)-so 75mm for a 380mm diameter wheel.
You should be able to make a quick calculator in excel for different wheel diameters  or mark your wheel with tape at the 380mm dia/190mm radius.

To check steering play:

    Make sure the road wheels are on the ground and pointing straight ahead.

    Lightly turn the steering wheel left and right as far as possible without moving the road wheels.

    Check the amount of free play at the rim of the steering wheel.

If power steering is fitted, the engine must be running.

Steering wheel free play should not be more than:

    13mm for rack and pinion steering, or 48mm if there are several joints between the steering wheel and the rack
    75mm for non-rack and pinion

These limits are for a standard 380mm diameter steering wheel. The limits should be adjusted up or down accordingly with larger or smaller diameter steering wheels.

Play due to wear or maladjustment must not be confused with apparent play due to the construction of the mechanism, such as caused by the deflection of flexible joints or spring compression in external power steering systems.

Uwe,
I find it hard to see how the tie rods wear? The Track rod end  ball joints -yes I can figure that happening.
I noticed that Moss have a French office/base-they may have the parts you need.
Hopefully you have resolved  the issue.
Regards,
Graham

Greg,
One way to check if the play is due to  an issue in your linkages (ie track rods) or the steering box is to jack up one wheel and check for play at the wheel that's jacked up (the steering wheel ought not to move as the wheel on the ground has it locked) followed by the other wheel (with side you just checked on terra firma). Assuming no play you can assume its in the steering box.
Graham

To be consistent when comparing the steering wheel play test the steering wheel diameter needs stated as if you fitted a larger steering wheel the play ( although the same) will appear larger.

Toe in ( or out) is across the axle so for me all references are total.
I am sure the track ace measures total toe in/ out as it's measuring one wheel relative to the other.( I have used a track ace since they came out).
Regardless of your tracking setting , the play in the box will dictate whether you control the car via the steering wheel or the road surface does the steering for you due to road surface changes and the play available to it.
I would Jack the car up and check ( with someone holding the steering wheel) how much slop you have at dead centre
My vintage 1929 Citroen had such an issue ( worm and sector) and it felt like I was driving a boat down the road.
Graham

Are you sure thats not the relay rather than the solenoid? My car (CRS) has the solenoid on the starter and the realays in the passenger footbox.
Graham

It ought to be on the starter so I would check there first.  If it's not there then it could be remote so look in area near battery.
FH

Laurent,
Good question -what type of rack is fitted and whats it from. Any clues (Part numbers , ford or other ID stampings on the rack you presumably have removed?
You could see if a specialist like this can refurbish it:
https://steering-racks.co.uk/

I just did a search for "steering"  on the MkIV thread  and came up with these-seems to be a modified MGB and Gerry Hawkridge  mentioned as a supplier:
https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=14.msg3888#msg3888
https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9864.msg57294#msg57294
Do let us know how you progress.
Regards
Graham

Laurent-re the wheel bearing --the one in place should have a code number on it to get a replacement.
I found the adjustment article so will email.
Graham