Messages

Nice bolt set up.

It should have 4 bolts in total each side.

Two for fixing directly on the wheel arch towards the back of the car, and two for fixing the mesh to a bracket in the front.

How are you going to orientate it? whit the longer bit at front pointing inwards or outwards?

Edmondo

Very good job!
I am away, will post the photos of my result too. Not in the garage in these days.
Edmondo

Hi Eddie,
The original door cards are made from approx 4mm thick plywood, covered in leather with no padding.
It's hard to tell from your photos but is there some padding under the leather on your car?
Regards, Luke.

Hello Luke,
Thanks so much for these infos.
I will check the plywood thickness. The door panels are definetley not original. And indeed done with padding. I have removed the padding around the door controur, but still not thin enough. I ahve also reduced the panels so to not have them in fornt of the furflex, but unfortunately still not closing well. What suggested by Nick might be the solution. Thinner piping in that position.

Hi Eddie.
I've attached a couple of photos which might help a bit. These show the original set up on my Aceca. Let me know if you need any more info .
Kind regards Nick

Thank you Nick,
I should have read again your previous posts, thanks!
So if i understand correctly you belive to have original seals on your car, and the vertical one is thinner than the horizontal one? this might explain my issue, with the full size furflex it doesent closes.
Now i am not at the gargage, but will measure again what i got. and i will eventually build a seal myself of the right diameter.

Hello!
Got the Furflex samples. 3 different companies, and i bought in the end the thinner and softer one.
I have installed it, and finally the driver door close nicely without forcing it!
For the passenger door, despite having skimmed the door panel, it still doensn't close well. Still not enough space between the door sill and the door (+panel).
Without the Furflex it closes well.
So i dont know now if i should continue to thin the door panel, or if may be there was no Furflex seal in this part of the door?
Please let me know if anybody is aware of the orignal set up. In some internet photos, sometimes i see the Furflex, sometimes there is not.
Thanks!
Eddie

Hello!
on te car i am working i belive to have the orignal set up with the SU pump located on the side of the engine.
I am not sure at wich pressure it is set.

Before to do any change to your system, have you tried to renew the seats and the needles of the float chambers?
Have you set the forks at the right hight?

Eddie

Hello,
here you can see the routing for a 1955 Aceca RHD, but the brake pipe routing is probably similar to the Ace.

https://www.johnrossmotorracingarchive.co.uk/index.php?twg_album=AC+Cars&twg_show=RB+344+-+AC+factory+-+October+1955.jpg

https://www.johnrossmotorracingarchive.co.uk/index.php?twg_album=AC+Cars&twg_show=RB+344+-+AC+factory+-+October+1955.jpg#6


Best,
Eddie

From the Interchangable Parts Booklet

Drawing curtesy of Brian Eacott.
I am planning to have the leafsprings re-cambered hot.
Eddie

I gap them at about 0.025" and it seems to run OK with the plug colour being a light biscuit/grey colour. I use 14mm plugs with adapters to suit. I have also disabled the manual advance retard and use a distributor with bob weights and triple 1 1/8 " carbs. The voltage regulator has also been updated to a solid state unit, but I still run with point and condenser set up.
It has taken a while for me to get everything settled down and the motor to run smoothly after a complete engine and carburettor rebuild. I can't say if that is just as it is after a rebuild and running in or if it was me that was crap at tuning.

thank you very much Big Col for your contribution!
0.25 seems in line with what i am beeing suggested.

What the other are doing?

Thanks!!

in the end i set for the NGK B6HS given that i am using a lot of them! and they are readly avilable at the local autoparts store.

But today i seems to finally got the carb tuning right witht the help of somebody more experienced than me.

I left the spark gap as per manual at 0.018 in. (0.45mm) , but he was suggesting to go for a wider gap. 0.0236 (.60mm).

Wich gap are you using?

Thanks!

Thank you Robin!
do you use it all year around? or just winter?

thanks for the info on the oil. For the time beeing i bought Castrol Classic XL 20W50 .
May be next time i will try semi synt.

Thanks!

Thank you Robin!
i guess i will wait untill it get worse. It doesnt do it all the time.
Just ramdomly.
I just slakened a bit the belt as i think it was too thight, and might be part of the issue.
The alternator bearings were gone in fact.
Eddie

The VSCC published some work done with antifreeze liquids & it is recommended that the original Classic 'Bluecol' be used as it suits the engine make up of the older engines, i have this for my engines!
By the way i use classic semi synthetic 20/50 oil which a number of oil suppliers have available!
Robin

Thank you!
i didnt knew it was still avilable!
https://www.tetrosyl.com/brands/bluecol/
Will look for it, do you know wich type? i see different are avilable.
Thanks!
Eddie

Hello!
sorry i forgot to report also on this thread on my findings.
https://www.acownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=463.15

I have measured the distance between "I" and "1 I 6", the mark "I" is 1 1/4 before the mark "1 I 6", so i can confirm that the mark "I" is the firing point as per manual.

I did the timing with a strobo light, and it was completely off!

i did it with the static method, and now it is fine.

I will leave it like this, and alter during carb tuning in case of need.

Thanks!