Messages

@AE501, thank you but looking for an export LHD model.

Hi bbk,
if you're still interested in an Aceca - perhaps we should keep contact...who knows?
I'm thinking about selling AE 501. You can find some pictures in this forum.

Flying horse, link below to the auction results.

https://www.broadarrowauctions.com/vehicles/results?q%5Bbranch_id_eq%5D=19&q%5Bs%5D%5B0%5D%5Bname_dir%5D=stock.asc&utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=SF25_Results&hashed_email=785b845e3902c74b5f0527ba240b014553176405d992d1e20717d4623cbbe059&dtm_em=785b845e3902c74b5f0527ba240b014553176405d992d1e20717d4623cbbe059

Where are the auction results published as I was interested in what the Lotus Elite type14 sold for and the squire?

If you google Broad Arrow auctions it will bring up their site.  I'm not sure if they publish the sold price though.

Definitely a beauty. Spoke to the auction manager and he thought it would go for $50k.  Guess there was a lot more interest than from me!  I was prepared to bid and was signed up for this particular auction but when the price went up as much as it did, I was out.  Your Ace must be a beauty to be on the lawn at Pebble!  I wonder what how bad the Aceca engine is?

The Broad Arrow Aceca just sold for $85,000 (USD).  It has a "stuck" engine. Perhaps it is possible to unstick it, or rebuild the motor or worst case it may need a new block.  A new block will affect value with a NOM AC engine or maybe a Bristol engine gets installed?  With the 12% auction fee of $10,200 plus sales tax of $7,310 (8.6% where I am), puts the total price paid at $102,510 for this Aceca before mechanical work.  The engine rebuild (assuming the engine cannot be unstuck somehow) might add $10,000 USD and possibly more and unknown what else needs attention mechanically.  Cosmetics appear to be good.  All in all, with the price paid and further investment, hoping the new owner will not be in over the value of the car if it were to be sold as a running example. In any event, once the issues are fixed, it will be a gorgeous car to own.

There are a couple of Aceca's out there that need refurbishment (engine related and other).   Re. The Broadarrow car, besides the engine, once a car has been sitting, so many other things likely need attention too....... Hard to value the car correctly because when you add in 12% commission, sales tax, shipping and refurbishment costs, it all adds up quickly! 

Accouding to the Broadarrow,the auctioneers,the engine is "stuck" which probably means that there has been serious water ingress into the block. If that is the case, a new block would be required which I believe are obtainable but the cost of a rebuild would be considerably more than US 10k.

Thanks for the information.  I mention it is an AC six (not Bristol) in my original post. 

You don't say if it's an AC or a Bristol engine? If it's a Bristol try any of these - INRacing.co.uk, Spencer Lane Jones (office@spencer-lj.com),Grame Payne @ classicbristolcarpartscompany.co.uk/. If it's AC search the forum and you will be pointed in the right direction as there are 2 main suppliers of AC engine parts as I understand it - Robin Woolmer (AC-project.co.uk) and Rod Briggs (ac-6.co.uk)- I have no experience of either of these gentlemen.

Thanks for your input Barrie.

I have often looked at the silly 'double bubble' sump with its two drains and wondered what would work better. I have concluded that the rather weedy cross member, which spans the engine bay, contributes nothing to the chassis stiffness. It looks to me like a fig leaf to justify the (cheaper?) Fox Body double sump. The alternative would be the double bubble sump with no apparent reason for fitting it, except for the cost saving. Customers would raise their eyebrows and ask why the sump was not simple like the previous Cobra iterations.
So the question is should this probably pointless extra cross member, so close to massive 4" tube crossmembers, simply be cut out ? This would allow the fitment of a 'proper' large capacity, baffled, Aviad style sump, or a simple, pressed steel single drain 289 style sump, or even a decorative cast alloy, finned alloy sump
Barrie

Thank you for the response.   Sounds like my stock oil pan type and the one you refer to would be the best option due to the chassis crossmember.  I think my car has that.   I appreciate your thoughts.

Rob

I think your main frame design is not allowing a front sump pan with trap doors what would be the best option.

On my 331 I'm using a Canton road racing pan with the 2 sumps where the rear one is the biggest.

I allways planned to switch to a front sump version but never had the time to find out of it will fit in front of the frame crossmember. That crossmember was placed in that position because Autokraft used the complete engine out of the Mustang. The Mustang needed this stupid 2 sump design.

Without any modification the dual sump road racing oil pan from Canton will fit if your engine had the split sump as well.

Don't forget to order the correct oil pick up and dip stick for the pan If you want to go this route.

Canton 15-640 is a 6 quart rear pan, the same as you see it in my pictures below.

Check if it clears your stroker rotating assembly.

Hi Chris.   Thank you for the input.   I was thinking about $10k for a rebuild.   Finding an experienced AC engine person will be another matter.   Thanks!

The engine in my 1987 Mk IV is being replaced with a new crate engine.   The existing engine will be removed and not rebuilt due to its age, bad #8 cylinder and the fact that it is not the original engine anyway in the car.  The new engine will be a small block 347 c.i., 415 h.p.  A definite upgrade to my current engine.

The existing 5.0 has an oil pan with larger rear sump area, notch in the middle and front sump that is shallower.  Both the rear and front sump areas have drain plugs.   The new crate motor has a different oil pan that has a front sump that is deeper....no rear sump (see image).

The question is, does an oil pan like the one in the image fit in the Mk. IV engine bay or would I need a similar oil pan as described above with two sump areas...larger in rear and smaller in front.  Thanks for any feedback.

There is a Aceca I am considering to purchase but has as yet, undiagnosed engine issues.   In general and considering the worst scenario, what would the cost be to rebuild an Aceca engine.   It is an AC straight six, not a Bristol.   I am in the U.S. and trying to get a general ballpark.  Thank you

Hi Uwe. Not sure why the numbering started with 2, but looks to be later production Mk. IV's '93-'94 production. Not sure if that has anything to do with it or now as some cars starting with the number 1 were made later.

Rob

Another red Mk IV for sale, private seller, $100,000.  No affiliation.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/ac/cobra/2037643.html

Found on Hemmings web site. No affiliation. No AK number noted.

Will post another red Mk. IV also.

https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/autokraft/mk-iv/2002486.html